Issue #21
SPRING 2012
Real Steel: VIDEO! Moon Hammer
by Todd Gdula
Okay, okay, I promised the Danish axe next. Sorry it didn’t work out — we will do the axe real soon.
I think you’re gonna like this one! Sam and I had fun making both the moon hammer and the video.
So, How Do You Make a Moon Hammer?
It’s really simple. I took a 3” long piece of 1.125” inside diameter mild steel structural pipe with 0.1875” thick walls and MIG welded a 3.25” forged mild steel ball to it. I then drove a 24” length of 1.125” diameter white oak dowel into the pipe (it’s a really tight fit), drilled two holes, and peened in two copper pins for insurance. The whole thing weighs in at 6 lbs.
I will be putting some kind of handle treatment on it but haven’t decided yet whether to go with leather wrap or some kind of studs — or both.
I didn’t swing the moon hammer that hard and was kind of surprised at the results…
This covers the mace request, and we’ll do the Danish axe soon. I do plan a war hammer and war ’hawk soon also. Any other requests?
Yeah, I heard ya on the assorted fruit targets — we’re saving that for the edged weapons.
19 Responses to “Real Steel: VIDEO! Moon Hammer”
I would hate to be on the receiving end of it when you would swing it for (full) effect.
If you can bust a brick with it you can bust a melon with it -> skulls are a mix – hard on the outside, soft on the inside
Todd, your MIG welding reference does trigger me to ask: how would one do a weld in medieval times? I’ve read something about using silver to weld stuff together, but for a mace that would make it somewhat expensive in my mind. Also, could a silver weld deal with the impact?
@Darkjoy – the silver method is actually soldering – using another type of metal like a glue. Welding actually makes two pieces into one. In the days before modern welding tools and techniques there was forge welding.
Check it out here:
http://www.koboldquarterly.com/k/front-page7059.php
It’s about forge folded steel but it covers the forge welding aspect pretty well.
Todd, ok, got it.
How would a traditional forge weld deal with the shock of an impact? Or would you forge it differently => one piece instead of mixing two pieces?
@Darkjoy – If it’s done right pieces that are forge welded become one piece and can handle stresses as if they were forged as a single piece. The old time blacksmiths were/are very skilled at this – much better than I. The moon hammer is my design and not traditional in any way. It could be forge welded but I designed it knowing I would MIG weld it.
Forging a ball with a tube on the end would be a real challenge!
Nice video. I was hoping for a bigger pile of bricks, but it was quite definitive.
How heavy does 6 pounds seem when it is so heavily weighted at the end? Can you imagine swinging it around for more than a minute?
@Kobold Quarterly – I was shocked at how easily it broke the brick – and the block was a surprise bonus also. I’ll do a video of a bigger pile of bricks and maybe we can post it as a bonus?
It’s very front heavy – to be practicle it should weigh 2-3 pounds less. I think a couple of minutes swinging it would be exhausting. It’s easier to control than the tetsu no bo, but still not easy.
How about a seax with the pattern welded blade? (I blame National Geographic and the really cool image of them pressing the two pieces together.)
It named a whole people, so it can’t be all bad, eh?
@Ben – I’ve been wanting to do a seax for myself for a while. No promises of when or if it will be pattern welded, but I will do one. Most likely not a langseax, but one never knows.
It’s a simple and elegant form – I really like them.
I’d like to see how that weapon would word on a bucket or helmet. Try that next time.
@James Thomas – I’ll try and find a good target for take two – kobolds allowing…
Suggestion for the future…. a glaive. Or a flail, esp the complex flail, three chains and three balls on the end.
Been enjoying the series though. Thanks for doing them!
I imagine a weapon like that would have a counterweight at the other end of the haft to account for the balance and improve handling.
-Ben.
@catdragon – I’m with you on the glaive – I have a design worked up – just need the time to forge it. I would love to do a flail, but I hesitate because I know people will want to buy them and they are SOOO dangerous. I’m still thinking about it.
Thanks, I’m glad you’re enjoying the series, so am I.
@Ben – I agree, and I built two last night with a smaller ball at the other end as well as an all steel haft. It makes a difference.
Thanks, everyone, for the discussion here and the suggestions!
If you have a scrapyard anywhere near you I’d suggest getting an old car door to bash on. Some tennis gloves might cut down on vibration into your hands also.
@Miranda –
@Doomedpaladin – Would a car door have enough visual interest? The wood handles dampen the shock – it’s the metal ones on an unmoving target that hurt…
That looks a lot like the throwing hammers used for Scottish heavy athletics, though they usually use a rattan handle.
They’re also throwing a 16 or 22 pound hammer.
@Donald O’Bloggin’ – if I’m not mistaken those throwing hammers are descendants of the ball and chain, an ancient Scottish weapon.